User:Charuannd/Sandbox

=Finishing of Hemlines= Hem finishing is a kind of edge finishing which prevents hem or lower edge of the garment from fraying, reveling or stretching. The position of hemline is one of the most important elements of a fashion silhouette and its depth, weight and method of application can have important effects on the success or failure of a design. Hem finish can be defined as an edge finishing hems are made on a single piece of material and can vary in width from less than 1/8” to several inches wide. They can be folded once or twice either the wrong side or face side of the garment. Most are held in place by machine stitching, hand stitching fusing or gluing. They can, however , be left flat and finished by covering the edge with a series of stitches at or over the edge of the material and occasionally they are simply left row. The terms associated with hem lines are hem edge, hem line and hem allowance.

•Hem edge – the row edge of the hem

•Hems line – the edge of the garment •Hem allowance – the distance between hem line and hem edge.

Hem can be described in several ways by its name, the method used to sew it, the number of folds or turns it contains and its width. =Types of hems= 1.Single ply hems •Unfinished hem edge •Thread finished hem edge 2.Folded hems •Narrow folded hems •Deep folded hems 3.Enclosed hems •Faced hems •Bound hems •Banded hems

1. SINGLE PLY HEMS:
The garment is simply cut at the desired hemlines and it saves several inches of fabric per garment. Therefore single-ply hems are economical in terms of fabric utilization.

•Unfinished hem edge- the hems of special non raveling fabrics like lace ,leather, suede, felt, lace etc are left unfinished.

•Lace is a decorative fabric which is typically used with its scalloped lower edge which serves as a hem.

•Leather and suede garments usually have deep folded and glued hems which may also be left as cut. In suede garments, lower edge can also be cut as a fringe instead of a traditional hem.

2. THREAD FINISHED HEM EDGES
If the garment fabric is not stable enough for the cut edge to the treated as hem or if particular decorative effects are desired, and then thread stitching can be used to treat the single-ply cut edge. Different methods used are: •Surging-It gives a flat finish which stretches and contracts with the garment. It is a quick and inexpensive method. It is generally used for knit garments. Sleepwear, shirts meant to be tucked in and children’s under shirts.

•Embroidery- It produces decorative effects on hem. It can be done on a straight or scalloped edge. Handmade button-hole or blanket stitch can be send to cover the cut edge of the hem.

•Picot Edge: On sheer fabrics he can be finished by picot edging done specialized machine.

II. FOLDED HEMS:
It is the most common hem type used. It is formed by folding and then securing the finished raw edge of the fabric to the wrong side of the garment at the desired length. These hems are ideal for straight cut or straight cut with little flare. These hems increase the garment cost due to the extra allowance of fabric used for deep hems.

1.Narrow Folded Hems
If the completed hem is 0.5cm-1.5cm, it is classified as a narrow hem. Such hems are suitable for very flared garments, garments that are to be worn tucked in, trimmings and accessories like scarves and handkerchiefs. These hems can be slightly curved or straight, hand or machine stitched and secured by one or more rows of machining.

•Machine at one edge-it is commonly seen as shirt-tail hem. It is found on all blouses and shirts for men, women and children. It is machine stitched with a single row of stitching and is about ¼” (0.5-0.6cm) deep.

•Machine at two edges- these are generally seen on dresses, shirts, jackets or ladies’ kurtas where the hem is visible on the outside. The ready width of hem is 1cm-1.5cm and secured by two rows of stitching. •Rolled hem- It is made by hand but can also be done by machine. The finished width of rolled hem is 0.3cm deep and consists of several plies of fabric that are rolled. The stitches are hidden under the rolled edges. It is generally used for expensive handkerchiefs, designer garments made of sheer fabrics etc. •In children’s clothes or lingerie, lace can be attached on narrow hem for decorative purpose by overcasting stitch.

2.Deep Folded Hems
When the ready hem width is more than 2cm, it is classified as deep folded hem. The different types are: •Straight hems- They are made deeper than shaped hems, in straight folded hem, the hem edge is finished and then the hem is folded in place and secured to the wrong side of the hems, it is important that grain line of hem matches with the grain line of the garment.

•Shaped hems – it occurs in garments like A-line skirt, or tapered sleeve or slacks. Flare or taper produces either an excessive amount of fullness or insufficient fullness at its raw edge when the hem is folded back in place against the garment. Greater care is required to maintain alignment and avoid a hem that ripples when completed.

3.ENCLOSED HEMS:
In these hems, application of some additional fabric is required to produce an enclosure for the free edge of the garment. A minimum of four plies are present at the seamed edge. The different types are:

•Faced hems : when fabric is too thick to be folded or when garment is extremely flared or tapered. Hem facings can be very narrow and cut on bias or on shaped facing.

•Bound hems : they can be decorative or functional in nature. They are generally used on reversible garments where they serve the dual purpose of encasing the raw edge and accenting the hem edge. Bound hems use bindings to encase the cut edge of garment.

•Banded hems : these encase the raw edge of the hem and also add length to the garment. it can be of self-fabric or of a contrasting colour and/or texture for better aesthetic appeal. The band portion is two ply with either a seam or a fold at a lower edge. In case of slight flare, a shaped band is used. =Point to remember :=

•The hemline of the garment should be parallel to the floor during wear.

•The hem should be even in depth

•The hem should be flat and smooth with no pulling, ripples , puckers or pleats

•The hem type, hem finish and method of attachment should be appropriate for the garment fabric and style.

•Excess bulk should be eliminated from the hem area

•Blind stitching, fusing and gluing should be inconspicuous on the right side of the garment.